Inside MARCU INITIAL: Limited-Edition Haute Horlogerie Mastery

JÉRÔME MARCU

Some crafts are learned. Others are embedded in our DNA without us even being aware of them. For Jérôme Marcu, bringing matter to life has always been part of who he is. Since the 1950s, his family has developed automata and mechanical musical instruments. He grew up surrounded by objects capable of precise movement, driven solely by the accuracy of their construction. From the age of 10, the family workshop became his first school. Trained at the watchmaking school of Morteau, he developed a deep mastery of mechanical balances, complications and the demands of precision through experience with major Maisons such as Vacheron Constantin, Gérald Genta, Patek Philippe and Harry Winston.

Initial Watch – MARCU

Jérôme Marcu’s watchmaking is clear and structured, built to be easily adjusted and restored. The construction of INITIAL draws from traditional watchmaking codes and the demands of artisanal Haute Horlogerie. Throughout its development, Jérôme Marcu chose the freedom to execute almost the entire watch by hand.

INITIAL’s watchmaking language expresses itself through the innovation of diamond-set hands – a world first –and a “pine needle” dial pattern, where each line is an extension of Jérôme’s hand.

It is also conveyed through the architecture and balance of the movement, entirely designed around symmetry. The barrel is positioned at 12 o’clock. The winding pawl mirrors the crown wheel. The balance-wheel placed at 6 o’clock structures the entire caliber. Each element contributes to a clear grasp of the movement. Every component of this model exuding a sense of proportion and refinement inherited from years spent within prestigious Maisons. The entirely hand-crafted finishing is enhanced by numerous hand-polished angles, symbolizing the attention lavished right the way through to the polished stud holder. INITIAL is issued in a 33-piece limited edition comprising three series of 11 each. Hovering between controlled production, responsibility and symbolism, this number is no coincidence. A deliberate limit, genuine capacity: that of designing, producing and mastering each piece without compromise.

HANDS ,SET WITH BAGUETTE-CUT DIAMONDS

A MAJOR INNOVATION

Each hand is tipped with a baguette-cut diamond. An apparently simple idea requiring a complete rethinking of forces, inertia and stability. From mass calculations to dynamic balance, the solution is structural. A black polished steel counterweight placed in exact opposition neutralizes gravitational effects and ensures consistent timekeeping. The geometry, size and weight of the hands are more than aesthetic choices; they are conditions of achieving this balance. The challenge lies in cutting a precise groove directly into the diamond. This cut determines the integration of the stone into the hand, thus ensuring perfect invisible setting. The hands are cut using electrical discharge machining, then adjusted by hand, one by one. This process achieves the precision of workmanship essential for setting a baguette-cut diamond at their tip. Whilst a traditional hand is generally 0.2 mm thick, INITIAL’s diamond-set hands are 1.4 mm high. The diamonds are custom-cut and of the very highest quality (D, IF, VVS1). Particularly complex in design, the pins consist of 11 distinct elements. They are crafted from hardened steel, then polished and flame-blued as required – a method favoured for its aesthetic qualities and durability.

MARCU — “Pine Needle” Engraving =20 hours

“PINE NEEDLE” DIAL

Entirely hand-structured to form a “pine needle” motif created line by line through Jérôme’s manual milling, each dial requires around 20 hours of work. Each is uniquely vibrant, as the material retains the trace of the artisan’s touch. The pattern creates light and depth effects, while maintaining clear and controlled visibility. The dial is composed of 7 elements; drawing inspiration from certain vintage watches, Jérôme designed the centre of the dial around two concentric decorative rings. The first is a disc, whilst the second, positioned at its centre, takes the form of a dome.

THE BEZEL

The bezel rests on four pillars secured by visible steel screws. This architectural approach draws inspiration from historic watchmaking constructions, where three-dimensional design contributed as much to the watch’s identity as to its legibility.

Beyond its distinctive aesthetic, this construction also serves a functional purpose. Set beneath the sapphire crystal, the bezel is naturally protected from shocks and scratches, preserving the integrity of its decoration and the quality of its finishing over time.

THE “M” OF MARCU

The M of MARCU is not drawn, but instead hand-crafted using three separate elements, individually applied and assembled to form a single sign. On the right, a subtle J appears as a discreet maker’s mark. At the top, a square-root symbol expresses rigor, balance and mastery. Its two arcs convey equilibrium and controlled precision.

CASE

The 40 mm round case is crafted from Grade 5 titanium, chosen for its lightness, tone and durability. A glareproofed box-type sapphire crystal sits flush with the edge of the case while applied lugs are integrated to create a pleasing aesthetic. The pressure-fitted caseback recalls historical watch construction, enabling reduced thickness as well as facilitating long-term servicing and restoration.

THE MOVEMENT

The movement of INITIAL is uncompromising, powerful and legible, built around a symmetrical architecture and finished to the highest standards of artisanal Haute Horlogerie.

A CLEAR ARCHITECTURE

Its construction is both simple and demanding, epitomizing symmetry, clarity, structure. The hand-guilloché barrel is positioned at 12 o’clock. In a construction defined by carefully considered balances, Jérôme positioned the winding pawl exactly opposite the crown wheel. Clearly visible and delightfully animated with each winding, it imbues the movement with a sense of aesthetic equilibrium. The balance-wheel designed by Jérôme Marcu features integrated white gold screws serving to adjust its inertia. Positioned at 6 o’clock, it not only measures time, but also organizes the caliber, just as the layout of the gear train contributes to the overall balance of the construction. The stud holder is fully hand-beveled and specular-polished. On the gear-train bridge, Jérôme’s metaphor for precision is engraved in full: “Réglé comme du papier à musique” (as accurate as a “punched cardboard”). A personal reference drawn from childhood, inspired by mechanisms capable of playing the same melody a century later with perfect precision, simply from a perforated roll. Unchanged, unwavering, expressing an absolute discipline: the promise of repeatability. An ethos he engraves directly into the bridge, replacing the traditional “adjusted in five positions” with his own language of precision. Discreet sensibility and quiet humility run through every component of the timepiece.

AN ATELIER MOVEMENT

The components requiring external expertise are produced in collaboration with Geneva-based artisans, recognized for their mastery and among the finest craftsmen in the region.

INITIAL is driven by a manual-winding caliber endowed with a 50-hour power reserve and operating at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour. It is regulated by a flat hairspring with a mobile stud and gold balance screws. Its architecture comprises 116 movement components and 51 case components, housed in a 40 mm case water-resistant to 30 meters.

LIMITED EDITION OF 33

INITIAL is produced in a run of 33 spanning three versions of 11 watches. The number 33 is guided by discipline, responsibility and meaning.

“33 is the number of timepieces I can produce while maintaining full control. Beyond that, I would lose the direct connection with each watch. It is also a personal reference to 1933: the year of my father’s birth. A quiet marker, part of my story.”~Jérôme Marcu

The three interpretations of INITIAL are presented in a 40 mm Grade 5 titanium case, whose lightness and subtle hue enhance the distinctive character of each creation.

The first interpretation features an anthracite dial adorned with the signature “pine needle” motif, complemented by steel hands set with baguette-cut diamonds. A rhodium-plated bezel, highlighted by steel screws and engraved black numerals, completes the composition, while a mouse-grey Alcantara strap adds a refined finishing touch.

The second interpretation reveals a golden dial, once again decorated with the “pine needle” motif. Blued hands set with baguette-cut diamonds are paired with a rhodium-plated bezel accented by blue screws and engraved black numerals. The ensemble is finished with a navy-blue Alcantara strap.

The third interpretation is distinguished by a deep blue dial, enhanced by the same signature motif. Steel hands set with baguette-cut diamonds are combined with a rhodium-plated bezel featuring blue screws and engraved black numerals. A matching navy-blue Alcantara strap completes this monochromatic composition.